Maria

One of the most amazing things about the indigenous population here is their incredible sense of self-sufficiency. The men work the fields and build their homes while the women raise the children and sell their crafts that they make day in and day out. They are a proud, beautiful people, intent on preserving their way of life.

Our first night in San Cristobal, we ate a small dinner at an Argentinian restaurant. We sat outside, not realizing how cold it would get once the sun went down. Several young women and children approached us to buy hand made macrame belts, bracelets, little toys, etc.

It got dark and chilly, so we zipped up our sweaters. A tiny woman wearing the traditional clothing approached us to buy her wares. She was pleasant and engaging, and put a crocheted hat on David while showing me some embroidered purses. At first we politely refused, but she was undeterred and had such a sweet demeanor that we continued talking to her, all the while she made David wear the hat and displayed the pretty purses. Well, in the end we bought the hat and the purse (how could we not - the woman wasn't even wearing shoes!).

A few days later we were at the same spot in town, enjoying a glass of wine with Paul, whom we had met in San Agustinillo, and had bumped into him in this town. Along came the tiny woman with the long black braids. She put a hat on Paul, and kindly insisted he wear it while talking to us. This time we learned more about her, while Paul and I took the opportunity to practice our Spanish. She has two grown daughters, one young daughter and grandchildren. She was originally from Chamula, but left more than 25 years ago, when she converted to Christianity. We found it curious that she had not been back to Chamula in all these years, as it's only 10 km away. Later we read in the guide book that if you leave the Tzotzil religion, you are expulled from the town.

She told us about the festival happening this weekend in Chamula, and urged us to be careful ("Cuidalo!" she emphatically advised) of the fireworks which sometimes fall down on the crowd. In the end, Paul bought the hat.

Last night we were on our way to find some live music, and we saw her on the street. It was then that I realized how tiny she really was - the previous times we met her was while we were sitting. We were happy to see each other, and talked for a while on the street. She showed us some pretty embroidered table ware, and we would have bought it but she didn't have change. We told her we would see her tomorrow. She explained that we would not, as she goes to church on Sundays, so we said we would see her after we found some dinner and had change.

The streets were deserted, as most people were in Chamula for the festival. So I guess Maria decided to follow the sure sale. We saw her in the restaurant and invited her to join us. She sat and immediately resumed working on a macrame belt she had handy, and I was amazed to discover that she makes all the crafts she sells.

She then pulled the smallest bible I have ever seen out of a pocket, and began to read a few selections to us, explaining that there is only one God, Jehovah, and he is over everyone. When the server brought her glass of juice, she said a long prayer, during which we heard her mention us, asking to keep the nice couple safe in their travels. It was very moving. I momentarily regretted choosing that restaurant; on a nearby wall there was a crass print of a bare-bummed cowgirl riding the earth right above a self-portrait of Freda.

I also regret not trying harder to learn more Spanish before this trip. As Paul explained, to be able to converse with people here is not only convenient, but opens up a whole world of understanding how the people live and how they see the world.